What year was the hardest CAT paper
Strong on German rocks: 6 unknown top climbers
They drill, plan, travel and climb: We spoke to six German climbers who sat on the walls in front of the front door and beyond, their hunger for rocks and hard trains.
In this article:
- Sarah Kampf - Frankenjura
- Heli Kotter - Sparchen
- Toni Lamprecht - Kochel
- Charlotte Frank - South Palatinate
- Tilo Moser - Altmuehltal
- Roland Hemetzberger - Achleiten
Sarah Kampf - Frankenjura
Ten years ago, Sarah Kampf - at that time still Sarah Seeger - was the first woman ever to climb a Franconian 8c route, den Capricorn at the oracle, a route by Markus Bock that was just a year old at the time. Sarah then added a few more routes to the same degree before taking a baby break.
The 38-year-old Franconian by choice has been back for a good two years, and after joining in 2018 Battle Cat (8c / 8c +) was able to score their nominally most difficult route to date, it is clear that neither children nor job limit their enthusiasm for the rock: “My motivation for hard routes is still great. I like to do sports outside, I love the challenge and there are many routes that trigger such an inner process in me. "
The then Allgäu native came to Franconia at the age of 17 with a couple of strong climbing friends: "I liked it straight away, I've always enjoyed climbing athletic things". Sarah is still enthusiastic about the combination of climbing, spending the night outside and cooking.
Sarah's highlights: „Battle Cat was my toughest route on paper, but not in terms of effort. That's why my ascent of ChriSu (8c) on the Rottachberg in the Allgäu still more. I've been there so often and so many people have supported me - I just loved how the scene sticks together and can be happy. "
Sarah's favorite destination: “Sure, the Franconian Jura. What I like here is that the area is so incredibly diverse. But I don't really have any favorite rocks, it always depends on the project. "
Heli Kotter - Sparchen
“Building a house, having two children, full-time job as a vocational school teacher - there has been a lot going on in the last few years.” These joys of adult life could never keep 36-year-old Rosenheimer Heli Kotter from climbing: “Climbing and training is also a balance for me. I could train seven days a week. "
But for which there is not enough time in front and behind, the evening sessions in the bouldering room at home and at the Beastmaker must be enough. But that seems to be enough for Heli, he is as strong as ever. At 14 he got into climbing in Rosenheim and was soon on the road with the scene - and often with Alexander Huber at the Schleier waterfall: “That shaped me. I am therefore attracted by special alpine projects that convince me. ”Like his repetitions of Bellavista and Panaroma (both 11-) at the western pinnacle or Sansara (10+) at the Urlkopf - all creations by Alexander Huber.
But Heli prefers to open up its own routes: “I like independent lines with character. This stimulus, the question of whether it's even possible, and then climbing it, that pulls me more and more under its spell. ”In 2016 he opened with the Beastmaker, a 100 meter long 9a / 9a +, the most difficult route in Sparchen. Last year he managed three nice first ascents in the 8c + / 9a area, and there is no end in sight: “At the moment I have a lot of electricity,” says Heli and is already looking forward to his current project in Pinswang near Füssen.
Helicopter highlights: “Bellavista and Panaroma gave me very intense impressions. The storm night in Hotel Supramonte (8b) I will never forget in Sardinia. And of my first 9a, Mongo at the veil waterfall, I also like to think back. That was in 2008. "
Heli's favorite destination: “At the moment I almost only climb in the immediate vicinity. I grew up at the Schleier Waterfall. And in Sparchen I especially like the walls at the top: mega-compact, rough alpine limestone, view over the whole Inn valley and exposed like in alpine terrain - that suits me very well. "
Toni Lamprecht - Kochel
The man from Munich has been active in Kochel for over 30 years. And 2018 was another successful year for him: “The walls were as dry as they had been in ages. There were routes that are otherwise almost always wet, "says 48-year-old Toni, explaining the fact that he was able to get five new routes in Kochel in 2018, and adds:" Some of these were very old projects have now finally worked due to the good conditions. ”Including such unusual climbs as that Fling (8c or 11- / 11), which owes its name to a spectacular dyno in the middle of the wall.
Toni, who works as a special educator in civilian life, had his first project in Kochel back in 1987. "Yellow from the egg I called my first ascent there. That was such a short bouldering tour and definitely not the best of luck. I think it was never repeated. ”In the meantime, Toni's route account has accumulated over 300 new tours, most of them in Kochel:“ You always think you've done the most beautiful route. Until a new one comes. In addition, Kochel is so varied and we are a really good crew, so that projecting together is simply fun. And the new routes and boulders are coming your way. You think you don't feel like having a dusty overhang any more, and two weeks later you're lying under it. "
Toni's highlights: “My expeditions to Greenland were highlights, the new territory there exceeded all expectations. Otherwise, it's always the project I'm working on. "
Toni's favorite destinations: “I like Kochel because you have everything in one place and it is very varied. But I think the plank stone needle is even more beautiful: rock like the Verdon and a fantastic location. How cool is that? "
Charlotte Frank - South Palatinate
Born in Karlsruhe, Charlotte Frank began climbing in the Palatinate when she was 15. And has stayed with it ever since: "Climbing is my great passion, around which I structure everything around it." The 26-year-old currently lives in her Ford Nugget bus, which is sometimes in the Palatinate, sometimes in Oliana in Spain or somewhere in France, Switzerland or Italy stands under the rocks. The Palatinate woman has even used it to climb as far as Kalymnos and Turkey.
Last year she flew to the USA for the first time to learn about the sandstone climbs of the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. The Palatinate School seems to have paid off there, because with Omaha Beach (8b +) Charlotte scored one of her tougher routes.
Today she only looks past the Palatinate Rocks occasionally: “I have the feeling that it would limit me if I only climbed here. Recently I've been on the road a lot, in Europe, the USA, and even in Australia. Purely for climbing, I prefer endurance routes, and the hard routes in the Palatinate often have extremely difficult individual sections. It's almost like bouldering with a rope. "
Charlotte's highlights: “It's safe in sport climbing Mind control (8c) in Oliana. I was really surprised to be able to climb the route so quickly. Otherwise my trips to the USA and Australia, where I flew to alone every time. I like that: going somewhere alone and seeing what comes out of it. "
Charlotte's favorite destination: “In the Palatinate, it is the Retschelfels because it is very steep and secured with sport climbing. You can really concentrate on the difficult moves. Otherwise I like the Frankenjura very much. "
Tilo Moser - Altmuehltal
A tenth grade classic without bolts? Tilo Moser loves such special projects. In 1984 Wolfgang Güllich co-opened Canal in the back on the Kastlwand in the Franconian Altmühltal the first straight tens worldwide. More than three decades later, Tilo Moser from Munich managed the first clean ascent. Which in this case means: First of all, almost ten meters in the ninth degree unsecured, then accommodate a cliff and a tricam and then pull through the crux.
For the 42-year-old family man, it was not the first encounter with this type of climbing: “In 2000 I got to know trad climbing while studying in England. I love this process where you slowly back off your feet and gradually reduce the risk. "
The mathematician, who was born in Karlsruhe and grew up in Erlangen, is also otherwise a climber with body and soul: “For me, climbing is more than just a leisure activity. When I climbed for the first time in Franconia when I was 16, it was an aha experience: this is the sport I want to do. "
It is important for Tilo to always have one goal in mind: “I can't even imagine climbing without projects. With the Canal in the back For example, I kept busy for almost three years. In addition to hard sport climbing, where I still want to progress, I am also enthusiastic about such special things. "
Tilo's highlights: "Definitely my most difficult route so far, Odd fellows (8c) in the Franconian Jura. Then the trad route Slab and crack (E8, 6c) in Curbar in the Peak District, but also New Age (10-) in the Rätikon, which I was able to score last year. "
Tilo's favorite destination: “Still the Northern Franconian Jura. The Altmühltal with its special climbing also has its charms. And I think sport climbing in the Alps as well as on the Schleier waterfall is great, this combination of classy rock and a huge view is simply sensational.
Roland Hemetzberger - Achleiten
Roland Hemetzberger makes the rocks at the foot of the Kaiser Mountains route after route the top area. "In the meantime I have references all over the world, and the tough routes in Achleiten are already world-class!" No question, Roland Hemetzberger ate a fool on the walls under the Wilder Kaiser. When he started climbing 12 years ago in Oberaudorf, he quickly found a connection to the local sport climbing scene. And describes himself, at least in the current phase of life, as quite fanatical: "Climbing is my favorite activity and tinkering with difficult routes is just fun."
The 28-year-old has lived in Innsbruck for almost two years now, but he still makes the regular trips to Achleiten: “A few years ago I started to drill the steepest part of the wall there. In the meantime, Achleiten has become one of the most difficult areas in Austria in terms of the number of hard routes Outro (9a +) also received its current top route in 2016 - from Roland of course. When the busy Bavarian isn't planning a project, he likes to climb beautiful ridges in the Kaiser or Karwendel, because: “I find alpinism in general very interesting. I am enthusiastic about the versatility of climbing. "
Roland's highlights: “My biggest highlight is definitely the red point ascent of WoGü (8c, in the Rätikon) in autumn 2016, also because I invested a lot of time and effort there. Next to it the second ascent of Fugu, a hard 9a by Adam Ondra at the Schleier Wasserfall. "
Roland's favorite destination: “The Kaiser Mountains and, of course, Achleiten in particular. The season lasts from autumn to April, the walls face south, and you can climb even in the dead of winter. And there are beautiful routes from 6a to 9a +. "
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