How can I fix a bent sheetrock

How can the problem of the deflection pipe length be resolved when converting the shower?

I'm in the process of replacing my bathtub and re-tiling the surrounding walls. During the demolition, I discovered that the builder was using two layers of wall board for the original tiled shower surround: the deepest layer is just normal sheetrock that you would find anywhere else in the house, and the outer layer is the green wallpapered variant you would hope for to see used for a shower installation.

My best guess as to why there are two layers is the depth of the existing bullnose tile pieces; They appear to be designed to wrap around the edge of the greenboard. And that is exactly what the contractor did.

I think this means that the person who installed the plumbing positioned the valve body (and sized the bypass pipe) with the expectation that there would be two layers of wall plate. However, my new tile selection doesn't use deep bullnose end pieces. Consequently, I think that now if I were to use just one layer of Hardiebacker or Densshield in my tag as I had planned, I would have a larger clearance between the back of my valve button and the shield (which may not be the case) be like that bad) and also a gap between my downspout / diverter and the new tile (which would look ugly and let water get into the wall).

For the deflection tube, I probably have the option of someone sweating the external thread from the end and cutting off a piece that corresponds to the width of (Greenboard + Sheetrock - Denshield). Should I do that or just duplicate using two layers of wallboard? (Note that my new tile has a flat bullnose embellishment. So if I were to do two layers I would have to extend the outer layer to the outside corner (not shown) and also to the ceiling.)

Note that the bent bypass tube is soldered into the valve body.

Jimmy Fix-it

Adjusting the length of the tub spout is much easier than changing the entire shower enclosure and tile layout.

The method you use when shortening the pipe (and how much you shorten it) will depend on the type of tub spout you are installing (different spouts have different pipe mounting arrangements, not all like your age). and where your finished wall surface ends.

I highly recommend not cutting the pouring tube until you have finished tiling so you can ensure the correct length of tube.

PS: some spouts just slide open and use a gasket to seal. You are more forgiving when it comes to pipe length:


Thanks, Jimmy. I've already selected my fixtures so I already know my new spout is threaded. I think your advice to post-cut it is good. But what about the valve button? I think it is designed to that it takes into account differences in the distance between it and the rosette plate, but I'm not sure. In the picture above I installed the old button with the old chrome sleeve behind it. The new button has a similar design.

Jimmy Fix-it

The stainless sleeve that slides over the valve body offers a certain tolerance in terms of wall thickness. Your valve (it's a Moen) also uses a large plate to cover the assembly that is held to the wall with screws that secure it to the valve body. These plates are available in different depths. The best way to make sure of this is to approximate the location of the finished wall (with pieces of wood, drywall, etc) and hold that against the assembled siding to see where it all ends up. PS: What kind of weird shaped piece of something is stuck around the stainless sleeve?


This is just a foam gasket material from the original device. I haven't bothered to take it off yet.